Food Blog:
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Miss Tenacity.
New Mexico.
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Monday, January 9
Day of the Souffle
Do you live in fear of souffles? Finally, I no longer do. I have experimented with rough takes on the souffle archetype, and after making a couple in the past and TWO today, I tread with confidence in this world of baked foam.
Note that neither of today's souffles fit the usual pattern for how a standard souffle is constructed. I did not beat egg yolks into my base before adding the egg whites. This is partially because it is not always necessary to do so, and also because I just didn't wanna.
The structural integrity of a souffle comes partially from the expanded air in the beaten whites, and partially from the changing physical nature of items in the base. Using uncooked proteins (such as from egg yolk) in the base helps to give the final risen structure more.... structure. However, a similar effect can be constructed by using other uncooked proteins (such as the cornmeal in my savory souffle), or by just taking your chances with a more delicate result (as in the sweet souffle).
In both cases, I did just fine. Jumping up and down and opening the oven door do nothing to hurt a souffle. (Ok, opening the oven door isn't the best thing in the world, but only because it lets some heat out and it is the heat that keeps the souffle rising. All you have to do is get the heat up again and expansion will once again resume...)
My prediction is that souffles will have a long-lasting place in my home cooking adventures. I may even do THE classic souffle soon - that with a white sauce base and gruyere cheese as the main flavoring.
NOTE: both of these recipes serve ONE decently hungry person, so two smaller portions as part of a larger meal could be an option.
Part One, The Savory (Butternut Squash and Sage):
1/2 cup cooked winter squash
1/4 cup lowfat ricotta
1/4 tsp crumbled sage
2 T cornmeal (masa)
2 egg whites
salt & pepper to taste
[preheat oven to 375]
1. Combine the squash, sage, ricotta, and cornmeal and blend well, allowing the cornmeal to thicken slightly for a few minutes. Add some water to make the consistency like that of thick pudding.
2. Whip the egg whites to firm peaks with the help of about 1/8 tsp cream of tartar.
[For the folding procedure, it is helpful to consult a master reference so you can see how it is done. Two things are critical - go very slowly, and do not stir. The folding technique itself will help preserve much of the volume of your whipped whites, which in turn will make the souffle do its thing.]
3. Fold in 1/4 of the whites to the squash mixture, carefully incorporating to not break the foam. Fold in 1/2 of the remaining whites the same way, and then the final bit of whites.
4. Spray 1 quart high-edged baking or souffle dish (my favorite is my Corningware with a handle, acquired many years ago) with oil, and then pour in the batter.
5. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until top looks slightly browned and the whole thing is quite puffy.
6. Remove from oven, snap some pictures, and then either serve from the dish or unmold it on to a plate:
Eat! Dig your fork in, and enjoy the light yet rich-tasting fluffy cake that you have created in less than a half hour. All is well in your little culinary world. How could it not be, with this cheesy delight quivering before your fork?
Part Two, The Sweet (Lemon Cheesecake Pudding):
1 6oz container lemon flavored yogurt
1/2 package instant cheesecake pudding mix
water, as needed
2 egg whites
1. Combine the yogurt and pudding mix and beat for at least a minute, allowing the mixture to thicken. Add some water to make the consistency like that of pudding.
2. Whip the egg whites to firm peaks with the help of about 1/8 tsp cream of tartar.
[For the folding procedure, it is helpful to consult a master reference so you can see how it is done. Two things are critical - go very slowly, and do not stir. The folding technique itself will help preserve much of the volume of your whipped whites, which in turn will make the souffle do its thing.]
3. Fold in 1/4 of the whites to the pudding, carefully incorporating to not break the foam. Fold in 1/2 of the remaining whites the same way, and then the final bit of whites.
4. Spray 1 quart high-edged baking or souffle dish (my favorite is my Corningware with a handle, acquired many years ago) with oil, and then pour in the batter.
5. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until top looks slightly browned and the whole thing is quite puffy.
6. Remove from oven, snap some pictures (see photo at top for the sweet souffle right out of the oven), and then either serve from the dish or unmold it on to a plate (as it spews its guts out):
This souffle started fading much faster than the squash variety, probably because the base was so flimsy (not having uncooked proteins). I am dying to try a proper vanilla souffle with a cooked pudding base and egg yolks.... yum!
Time posted: 17:09 [permalink]
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CONTACT ME: tenacity -at- gmail.com
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