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Tenacious Flog
 
Monday, January 30

Godiva Never Saw Me Coming....  
The evidence of a DARK crime scene....

A while back, I had a huge dark chocolate craving after eating rather light earlier in the day, and I sated that craving with a pint of Godiva's Belgian Dark Chocolate ice cream. It was tasty. It was rich. I had a sugar high for a good hour afterwards.

Many months later, a similar craving led me to a deep dark chocolate brownie from an Italian pizza joint in Los Angeles. I swear the thing was 4 inches across and probably weighed nearly half a pound. One could hardly call it a brownie - it was somewhere in between fudge and ganache: chewy, overly sweet, and highly addictive. On their website it is described as a secret recipe "chock full of chocolate", which I confirm. Again I was trapped in a bouncy sugar rush after eating that thing - literally yabbering, giggling, and bouncing up and down in the backseat of my brother's car as we cruised around town. It was disgraceful but I was very happy.

Take all of this and then apply it to my love of homemade ice cream (with or without an ice cream maker - lately without), and THEN apply that to my love of tweaking recipes so that they are lower in sugar but still decadent, and we arrive at this:

Ganache Gelato

You can make this silky seductress of a frozen confection at home EASILY - but not without advance planning, a little bit of patience, and tolerance for spending a little money. There are many steps, but each one is simple and straightforward. I can make the batter and have it in the fridge in less than 10 minutes (I've had practice, of course). You don't even need an ice cream machine, but that would simplify some of the final steps.

Note that each ingredient plays a part. The salt & coffee accentuate the cocoa flavor. The evaporated milk adds body, while the condensed milk adds a bit of caramel undertone, and the half & half adds richness and a few stabilizers. Cornstarch thickens without adding flavor. The lack of eggs and vanilla keeps the chocolate flavor front and center without any interference.

Here's how to go about it:

One or more days before you freeze/eat the gelato:
Purchase VERY GOOD cocoa powder. Barest minimum level is Droste, but non-dutched varieties will give you more complex chocolate flavor as well as just make the gelato even better. I love Scharffen Berger, but have heard Callebaut is also great so I have some on order. This is not cheap - the Scharffen Berger cocoa powder alone costs $2 per batch of gelato. Be forewarned....

One day before you freeze/eat:
Prepare the batter. Instructions below. It must rest/chill overnight to allow the flavors to develop. Trust me.

Day of eating:
Churn and freeze. This will take either 2 minutes of active time plus 2-3 hours hardening if you have an ice cream machine, or it will take 2 hours of beating by hand every 30 minutes, plus 2-3 hours to harden.

Ready? Here's the recipe plus all the dirty instructions, in metric weights for ease & accuracy.

Tres Leches Ganache Gelato
(makes a scant pint, you determine the servings)

1/2 cup (121g) fat-free half & half
1/2 cup (121g) evaporated milk, 2% or skim
1 fluid ounce (38g) sweetened condensed milk
1 TBSP cornstarch
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 cup (43g) natural cocoa powder (dutch processed if you must)
1 tsp instant coffee or espresso powder
1/4 cup (7g) granular Splenda

1. Combine the 3 milks plus the cornstarch in a microwave safe container, whisk to combine well. (Or just do this in a small saucepan on the stove)
2. Heat at until steaming, whisking occasionally to make sure the cornstarch stays incorporated.
3. When boiling, the mixture should start setting up like loose pudding. Let it boil without boiling over for at least 30 seconds, until it is nice and thickened.
4. Stir in instant coffee and salt, and then whisk in the cocoa powder. After this is complete you should having something pretty thick like pudding.
5. Whisk in the granular Splenda, combining well.
6. Chill OVERNIGHT.
7a (with ice cream maker). Transfer to your ice cream maker and process until mostly firm (do either this step or 7b, not both).
7b (no ice cream maker). Transfer to metal bowl and place in freezer with a whisk. Take out every 20-30 minutes and beat like crazy until smooth. Repeat until just short of firmly set. Transfer quickly to food processor and puree for 20 seconds (this will make sure there are no remaining lumpy bits), or use a hand-held immersion blender to do the same thing (do either this step or 7a, not both).
8. Transfer to 1 pint container. Stick back in freezer and let it harden for at least 2 hours, depending on your freezer and how liquidy it got while in the food processor.
9. NOW, you can eat it. Sit in front of your picture window or just in a quiet chair and savor each and every bite. Don't you dare eat this in front of the TV or the computer. You've worked hard for this gelato, you are going to enjoy every last molecule of it. When finished, sigh with the oncoming theobroma rush and shiver with the chills coming from your tummy. All is well when you've eaten a shitload of frozen ganache.

*10. Contemplate the nutrition stats (for the whole batch): 426 calories - 11g fat, 81g carb (13g fiber, 45 sugar), 22g protein. 57% of your daily calcium, 1300mg of theobromine, and antioxidants out the yin-yang. Woo hoo!

Time posted: 09:22 [permalink]
Talk at me:
It looks amazing. Only 1 oz of sweetened condensed milk. What do you do with the rest?
 
Well.... it was leftover from some holiday baking (about 6 oz, or half a can's worth), and I've made 6 batches of gelato so far. That means I've just run out. *grin*

In the interim I just kept it in a sealed container in the fridge (not the original can) and it didn't go "off" at all.
 
how does one measure 1 fluid ounce? what type of measuring devices do you keep in that kitchen of yours? ;-) i need to know since i'm going to devour this this weekend.
 
stanleyaah,
As hinted at in the ingredients list, I use the gram weight. On the can of milk it says that 1 TBSP = 19g, so 2 TBSP (or 1 fluid ounce) would then weigh 38 grams. You could also measure out 2 TBSP directly, of course.

Simple.... once you have a kitchen scale. I wouldn't work without mine nowadays, especially for baking. Fantastic addition to my counter. Here is the one I own:
MyWeigh 3001, but they also sell one with twice the capacity for just $6 more, so that might be the way to go.

Good luck!
 
Wow, that looks amazing!!!

MR is a dark chocolate freak! I wonder if he would eat that if I made it for him. It looks quite acceptable, in all the fat free versions (though I'm a little scared of what they put in fat free half and half.) I bet I could borrow a friend's ice cream maker too. Another awesome recipe from Miss Tenacity!

a
 
Hullo!

I'm miladyinsanity for eG, who got frozen custard from this recipe. *sigh* I'll try again, but I think I'll substitute an egg yolk for the cornstarch this time.
 
April - I'd advise (for the sake of the smoothness) to not go all non-fat on this recipe. Its pretty darn "healthy" as it is, girl! :-)

Milady - I hope your next batch turns out better (see my eGullet comments there), and like my comment to April, I would recommend against the yolk - when I was using yolks it made the ice cream have much less "pure" chocolate flavor. It sort of muddied the clean taste, as does vanilla, IMHO.
 
Miss Tenacity,
Re your choc gelato recipe:I've never seen fat free half & half. Who makes it? Also, instead of Splenda, try Whey Low. It is a low glycemic natural sugar. (www.wheylow.com). They even make a special sugar just for ice cream.
 
I believe the brand of FF half & half I buy is Land O' Lakes, but I think there are other brands as well. Just look in the "coffee creamer" section of the dairy area in your grocery store.

Thanks for the tip regarding WheyLow....
 
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Comments:
It looks amazing. Only 1 oz of sweetened condensed milk. What do you do with the rest?
 
Well.... it was leftover from some holiday baking (about 6 oz, or half a can's worth), and I've made 6 batches of gelato so far. That means I've just run out. *grin*

In the interim I just kept it in a sealed container in the fridge (not the original can) and it didn't go "off" at all.
 
how does one measure 1 fluid ounce? what type of measuring devices do you keep in that kitchen of yours? ;-) i need to know since i'm going to devour this this weekend.
 
stanleyaah,
As hinted at in the ingredients list, I use the gram weight. On the can of milk it says that 1 TBSP = 19g, so 2 TBSP (or 1 fluid ounce) would then weigh 38 grams. You could also measure out 2 TBSP directly, of course.

Simple.... once you have a kitchen scale. I wouldn't work without mine nowadays, especially for baking. Fantastic addition to my counter. Here is the one I own:
MyWeigh 3001, but they also sell one with twice the capacity for just $6 more, so that might be the way to go.

Good luck!
 
Wow, that looks amazing!!!

MR is a dark chocolate freak! I wonder if he would eat that if I made it for him. It looks quite acceptable, in all the fat free versions (though I'm a little scared of what they put in fat free half and half.) I bet I could borrow a friend's ice cream maker too. Another awesome recipe from Miss Tenacity!

a
 
Hullo!

I'm miladyinsanity for eG, who got frozen custard from this recipe. *sigh* I'll try again, but I think I'll substitute an egg yolk for the cornstarch this time.
 
April - I'd advise (for the sake of the smoothness) to not go all non-fat on this recipe. Its pretty darn "healthy" as it is, girl! :-)

Milady - I hope your next batch turns out better (see my eGullet comments there), and like my comment to April, I would recommend against the yolk - when I was using yolks it made the ice cream have much less "pure" chocolate flavor. It sort of muddied the clean taste, as does vanilla, IMHO.
 
Miss Tenacity,
Re your choc gelato recipe:I've never seen fat free half & half. Who makes it? Also, instead of Splenda, try Whey Low. It is a low glycemic natural sugar. (www.wheylow.com). They even make a special sugar just for ice cream.
 
I believe the brand of FF half & half I buy is Land O' Lakes, but I think there are other brands as well. Just look in the "coffee creamer" section of the dairy area in your grocery store.

Thanks for the tip regarding WheyLow....
 
Post a Comment
 
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